Tuesday, July 11, 2006

Wildfires!

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I should have known it would be a weird sky day. Coming home after an early morning hike in Death Valley there was a cloud hanging over Corkscrew Peak that struck me as so unusual I stopped and snapped a pic. It made Corkscrew look like a volcano belching great plumes of white smoke. What a harbinger! As the pic shows, the rest of the sky was utterly cloudless.

Late that afternoon I went outside for something and noticed smoke rising from behind the "Beatty B" hills, which are west of town and, oh, about three blocks from my house. Sheeeee-it, I thought, that's awfully close. A few minutes later I looked out the front window, and OMG! now there was smoke rising from behind the mountains east of town! It was miles away and on the other side of several mountains, but still. Any wildfire is always remarkable. Two at once is downright eerie.

Naturally, I had to go out and drive around. First, I drove over to check on the ghost town, RHYOLITE, which is situated more or less on the other side of the Beatty B mountain, but before I even got there it became clear the fire was much further away than it had appeared -- behind other mountains, the ones that surround Rhyolite, so Rhyolite was fine. And sizing up where the fire seemed to be in relation to our house I felt, while not exactly reassured, less imminently threatened.

I then drove up North 95 to check out the fire east of town, but it was way back from the road behind still more mountains. If there are roads leading back there I don't know them yet, and it was late and starting to get dark, and I didn't have Ryan or the 4-Runner, so I wasn't feeling adventurous enough to go exploring. Besides, it might even have been on Nevada Test Site land and completely off limits. So, I just went back home to sit and watch and wait.

It's not often that I'm aware of any drawbacks to living in a tiny and remote community like Beatty, but if no local radio station, TV station, newspaper, or even web site could be deemed drawbacks, I was keenly aware of them that afternoon. I had no source of info about what was going on At. All. I could only watch and guess. I found myself sort of wandering back and forth from the front porch (facing east) to the back porch (facing west) snapping pics and wishing Ryan were there to see it all.

After a couple of hours the wind picked up considerably, blowing straight from the west. The Beatty B fire, which had died down, also picked up, and before I knew it smoke was pouring down the mountain and starting to envelop the town. The air had taken on a brownish yellow color, and it smelled like smoke inside the house. The "Beatty B" became all but invisible. I hunkered down and started trying to think about what I might throw in the car to take with me, if I needed to flee. And all this time I could not believe Ryan wasn't there. I couldn't even reach him by phone. Here's the most interesting thing that's happened in Beatty since we moved here, and he's missing it!

Fortunately, after a couple more hours the winds died down in Beatty and so, apparently, did the Beatty B fire to the west. Before long the air had cleared up enough to sit on the front porch and watch the drama unfold to the east. That fire
was farther away, but as night dropped over the landscape it became apparent that it was by far the worst of the two. Where during the day I'd only seen dark smoke I could now see bright red, as fires blazed over ridges and through canyons looking exactly like glowing lava creeping down the side of a volcano. There's that volcano theme again for the second time in the same day.

Eventually, I went to bed but sleep was fitful. I awoke and looked out at around 4am, and the fires were still glowing off to the east. Sunrise an hour later revealed plenty of black smoke still billowing up from behind the mountains (visible in the last pic).

As the day wore on there was less and less smoke visible in the east, so those fires either burned out or just burned out of sight behind more mountains. In the afternoon I went down to the store and got the skinny, which was that no humans had been injured
, and no structures had been burned or even threatened, "only land." Consensus seemed to be that Nature was just taking care of necessary maintenance, getting rid of old brush. Late afternoon brought rare huge rainstorms to the whole area, so that, dear reader, was that. No more fires, and all's well that ends well.

Now the only mystery that remains is that weird Corkscrew "cloud." Hmmmmmmmmm...

: - )

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A
ll photographs on this blog are my own, taken by me, copyright owned by me.

Sunday, June 25, 2006

Artifact!

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Okay, it's definitely summer now -- 103 degrees (39C) in the shade at 12:30pm on its way to a predicted 108 (42C) this afternoon. And that's just Beatty. They're predicting 126 (52C) for Death Valley!

I can only hike early in the early morning when it's this hot, but I do hike. A couple of days ago I set out around 6am to walk across an alluvial fan to the mouth of a canyon about a mile from the highway. I wanted to check out what appeared from a distance to be possible remnants of an old road.

I picked a random spot, pulled onto the shoulder and parked -- about a mile's walk across the alluvium from my goal. Walking across an alluvial fan is harder than walking up or down one because you have to walk in and out of all the channels that have been carved out like tiny Grand Canyons during eons of flood waters running down the fan, and believe me it's a lot easier to walk with the flow of the channels than across them.

I was picking my way carefully over the alluvium, looking down most of the time watching where to step, so I didn't see the old wreck until I practically stumbled over it, and even then I could hardly believe my eyes. What a find! Out in the middle of nowhere, with no warning, the best artifact I've ever discovered. And in such condition!

I've seen wrecks like this in the desert before -- although never so deeply buried -- but always along trails or in other spots where people go. These wrecks are all so well known that some people can identify a location just by looking at a picture of a wrecked vehicle. The well known wrecks have long since stripped by relic collectors of every possible removable piece and are often covered with graffiti and/or riddled with bullet holes from being used for target practice.

This wreck is unusual because it's not located in a place where people go, so it's in pristine condition -- no bullet holes, no graffiti, not even very many dents, and it even has a piece of trim still intact across the windscreen area.
I've no idea what kind of vehicle this was or how it looked in its day, but its day was clearly a very long time ago. There is a mostly rotted wooden slat still attached in back seat area, so at least some part of it was made of wood -- the foundations for the seats, maybe?

There are so many questions! What was it? Whose was it?
How did it get there/what happened? When did it happen? Why was it left there and not towed out? Who all still knows it's there today? If only it could talk!

After that amazing discovery I figured it was a good sign that I would find a road up at the mouth of that canyon, but no! It turned out to be nothing but a huge wash of gravel. Just goes to show ya about signs.

: - )


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A
ll photographs on this blog are my own, taken by me, copyright owned by me.

Monday, June 12, 2006

The Edge of Summer

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Distance from Beatty: 45 miles

Summer is still officially ten days away, but you'd never know it by the weather. The days are hot (90s), sunny and mostly cloud-free. Nights are cool, though (50s), so no matter how hot it gets during the day you know there will always be relief when the sun goes down. The humidity is so low that I haven't had the air conditioner on at all during this hot spell -- only the swamp cooler.

The other way to tell it's summer is that the number of tourists around town and in Death Valley has dropped drastically. The fancy hotel down there (Furnace Creek Inn) closed May 15th and won't open again until mid-October, so "the season" is over in the eyes of many. There are accomodations at the less ritzy Furnace Creek Ranch, but only the clueless, the crazy or the truly stout of heart -- and they may all be one and the same -- venture into DV in the summer when temps routinely soar above 115 degrees.

I'm certainly not stout of heart.. more like clueless and crazy, but I love Death Valley in the summer. I love being able to go to the touristy places and have them all to myself. I love not being around other people. I love the lack of traffic on the roads. And pretty as flowers are to behold in the desert, I love not seeing flowers everywhere, covering up the geology.


I wish I could stay out in the heat longer, but c'est la vie. There's still plenty of stuff to look at driving past in a vehicle, and if I start early enough in the morning I can get in a good two or three hour hike before the heat drives me back inside.

So it was the other morning. I got down there around 6:30 and walked around for a couple of hours before heading back to the car.

I went to the SORROWFUL HILLS area because it's close and has beautiful rocks, and I wanted to photograph rocks. From the time I left home until I got there I never saw another vehicle. You wanna know what heaven is? That's it. Cruising along in Death Valley early on a gorgeous, cloudless morning and having the whole place to myself.

I loved it when I looked in the mirror and saw the wind-whipped fingers of sand blowing across the road in my wake. People who live in colder climes will know exactly what this looks like -- snow! I just had to take a pic. Hee hee, can you picture it -- me doing 50 MPH down this tiny two-lane road trying to take a picture of a reflection in the side mirror? Clueless? Crazy? Or stout of heart?

One other drawback to summer in DV and having to do my hikes in the morning is that the light is different -- not as good for photographing rocks. It was actually difficult to see how beautiful the rocks were because the light was so weird at that time of day. I took a few pics, but they didn't turn out very well, so I'm not posting them. I did come across a rock stack, though. It had fallen over, so I replaced the top two or three rocks before taking its pic.

When I got back to the car I wasn't ready to go home, so I decided to drive up to Titus Canyon. It's been closed to traffic for about a year because the road was washed out in a rainstorm, but rumors have been floating around that it would reopen "in June." I wanted to see if there was any evidence at the mouth of the canyon that a repair crew (or any vehicle) might have gone in the canyon from that direction. But no. The place was deserted, and there weren't any tire tracks in the canyon at all.

But I couldn't resist wandering around the area next to the parking lot. The rocks that come out of Titus Canyon are really wonderful -- and different from rocks elsewhere in Death Valley (which is so often the case). The dominant feature of Titus rocks, for me, is how colorful they are. Other people will talk about what kind of rocks they are, or their composition, or what formation they came from, but what I see are their beautiful colors, which you can get a sense of from looking at the last two pics, especially the gravel.

On the way home I was reminded that it's not truly summer yet. I must have seen two dozen vehicles on the road between Titus Canyon and Beatty. Ugh. All going the other way, fortunately, but still. Just wait until August. It'll really be desert(ed) then!

: - )

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A
ll photographs on this blog are my own, taken by me, copyright owned by me.

Friday, June 02, 2006

Zabriskie Sunrise

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Distance from Beatty: 45 miles

There's probably no place in Death Valley National Park
more recognizable Zabriskie Point, and this sandstone formation, sometimes called Manly's Beacon, is truly an icon.

I left Beatty at 4:25 am to get down there in time to catch the sunrise. The first pic shown here was taken at 6:02 and the last at 6:34 so the sequence was shot over a period of 32 minutes.

Dawn of another beautiful day in the neighborhood . . .























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A
ll photographs on this blog are my own, taken by me, copyright owned by me.

Monday, May 29, 2006

Around the Yard . . .

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Spring in Beatty. My oh my -- beautiful wildflowers and exotic animals. Okay, maybe they're not technically exotic, but they're exotic to me; the wildlife I'm used to are things like squirrels, rabbits and maybe the occasional groundhog.

Here, though, we share our yard with things like jack rabbits, pack rats, numerous species of lizards and even, on occasion, a small band of burros.

The yellow flower is from the CREOSOTE BUSH. The purples are mojave asters. I'll take these over dandelions any day.

The lizard is the "desert spiny lizard." It was extremely wary of me.. hiding under the wheel of the car -- "Ha! She can't see me now!"

Oh, and our new back porch
(5th pic) is finally finished. It's absolutely fantastic.. keeps the sun off the back of the house and gives us a place to hang, cook out, star-gaze, photograph burros, whatever. . .

Life is sweet.

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A
ll photographs on this blog are my own, taken by me, copyright owned by me.